I guess the point of this is to see just how much you can do to make this platform really run. Out of the box the chassis needs better traction magnets, better tires and wheels, and better electrics. A few other items are thrown in.
Parts List: Mega-G chassis, Wizzard balanced 6 ohm motor, Wizzard small brush barrels, small brass washers, shunt wire, BSRT delrin wheel set, BSRT low-profile front rubber and Molded firm rear rubber tires, Slottech 22T gear, BSRT splined rear axle, Venom Level 42 Traction Magnets, rear axle retaining pins.
The photos show a lot of what needs to be done. But there are some things to note. The brush barrels have the brass washers soldered on for two reasons - first is to space them properly away from the commutator and then to give you something to solder the shunt wires onto. Also the brush barrels have to be Black Maxed into the chassis.
The rear axle retaining pins are a little tricky to drill. The left side is not too bad. But the right side is thinner due to design gear clearance and may not cooperate.
The old traction magnets are rotated up and out. The keeper tabs are shaved off. The new magnets are dropped in while the chassis is sitting on a piece of track so the rails help suck the magnet down into place. The magnet are then glued in.
Shunt wires are needed since there is no 'second path' of electricity as in most other chassis designs. You may have a different way of doing it but the step should be done.
The Slottech crown gear shank has to be shaved some and then shimmed to get proper mesh. A Slottech or Tyco 440 pinion would probably be a better choice than the Tomy. But... .
NOTE: please do not ask about having me build you a car like this or to sell this one. This car was built 'one-off' and I have no plans to do more. Modifing a Mega-G to this extent is not cost effective and can be unreliable in some specific areas. Any and all of these modifications are for you the hobbiest to do. Thanks.
